We left Tokyo on the Romance Car - a train with two-person seats and no armrests between them, which apparently earns it the name. It took us out to Hakone, a quiet mountain town known for its hot springs, hiking trails, and views of Mount Fuji (on a clear day, at least).
We dropped our bags at the hostel and then took a cable car up into the mountains. The weather wasn’t on our side - Mount Fuji stayed hidden behind a thick layer of clouds - but the scenery was still great, and the fresh air was a nice change from Tokyo. We made it to the top of a viewpoint where the clouds gave the whole place a misty, calm vibe.
At the top, we tried black eggs - a local specialty from eggs boiled in the sulphur-rich hot springs. They taste like regular eggs, but the shells turn black from the minerals in the water. The fun part is the superstition: eating one is said to add seven years to your life. Not sure how many I’d need to become immortal, but one seemed like a good start.
That night, we headed back to the guesthouse for a family-style dinner with the group. We stayed in a traditional place with tatami mat floors and futons. Simple and cozy, and honestly, I slept better than expected.
The next day we hopped on a bullet train to Kyoto. It’s a fast and smooth ride, and watching the countryside fly past the window was really fun. Kyoto feels totally different from Tokyo - calmer, older, more traditional.
After checking in, we went straight out to explore the Gion district, famous for its old wooden houses, lantern-lit alleys, and traditional tea houses. We walked through narrow streets, and actually spotted several geisha (called geiko in Kyoto) moving between appointments. According to our guide, that’s pretty rare, so we got lucky. They're dressed in full traditional wear and move so quickly and quietly to avoid tourists.
Dinner that night was at a yakitori place, where everything comes grilled on skewers. Very yummy!
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